Europeans and Americans in Israel (moving here)
One of Tel Aviv's hidden secrets is the
number of foreigners living here. Despite the image of dangerous and
racist spewed by international media channels, people somehow find
the more moderate view of a vibrant and friendly city. Europeans and
Americans are seen and heard on Tel Aviv streets, and are obviously
here to stay and not cameras toting tourists. A few conversations
with these foreigners reveals the reasons they come and live here. My
quick unofficial survey revealed the following reasons to live in Tel
Aviv:
- Love for Israel or Tel Aviv (with or without previous experience).
- Attracted by a family member, a romantic someone, or a close friend.
- Attracted by nationalism (Zionism), spirituality (Judaism, Christianity), or idealism.
- Attracted by a job, climate, or culture (multiple visits or a friend's recommendation).
On Tel Aviv streets, in shops and
restaurants, you see more young foreigners than older ones, mostly
speaking English (but French, German and even Japanese are also
heard). Younger foreigners seem to take to the city easily. A few
factors here come down to the comfort, climate, and community. Israel, and especially the central region, is cosmopolitan
and international in flavor. Tel Aviv proper looks and acts much more
like a southern French, Spanish, or Italian city. Yet for northern
Europeans, Scandinavians, and urban Americans, Tel Aviv feels almost
like the place where they came from. Tel Aviv's surrounding towns
also feel like European and American suburbs. I know two families
from Ohio (Cleveland and Toledo) and one from New York (Brooklyn)
that felt comfortable in Tel Aviv within weeks of arriving. British
from London also seem quite comfortable with the Tel Aviv style of
living. This environment and a comfort with people (and the culture),
probably explain the phenomena of foreigners living here comfortably.
We don't need to explain attraction by
a family member or a loved one. I met a British accountant who came
with a girlfriend. At first he was complaining about the low
corporate pay and the cost of brining into the country a used BMW (he
did not know about the new resident tax discount). But eventually
meandering through the Israeli bureaucratic tax, job market, and
simply understanding the subtleties of the culture, his attitude
changed dramatically. He was no longer frustrated as much as
bewildered and flooded with activity. His girlfriend quickly set him
to get information and details on improving the different elements in
his life. First came a job as an accountant with an American company.
That alone gave him a job with a salary similar to a worker in New
York. I presume that was almost double what an Israeli pays an
average accountant with a British chartered skills and certification.
Then came almost 80% reduction in import taxes on cars, which meant
he did not have to “pay another time for the car just for the
privilege of driving it on Tel Aviv streets”. Import taxes
are about 100% on luxury cars, which make cars about double the cost
of ones in Europe and America. It turns out that Israel is plagued by
one of the most complex and bureaucratic legal and regulatory systems
imaginable. It also represents hundreds of years of laws and policy,
sometimes going back to Ottoman Empire regulations (land laws are
still based on Ottoman Empire rules.) But in general, with lots of
calls, inquiries, and face gestures, you can figure out what you can
get away with. The satisfaction of people who come here because of
someone else, is a good indication of Tel Aviv's comfortable
environment for foreigners.
Next to the comfort factor is an
attraction to Israel for spiritual or idealistic reason. Some think
it is Zionism. Yet, for the most part very few mention Zionism these
days. In general, Zionism seems to Tel Avivians as an old idea,
belonging to the movement a century ago. The ones which mention
attraction to coming and staying here usually mean spirituality
(religion), idealism, or even nationalism. Tel Aviv is not considered
particularly spiritual to most Israelis. If you want spirituality and
religion, head to Jerusalemalem, Safed (Tzfat), or even Bnei Brak. Yet you can still live a spiritual or religious
life perfectly well anywhere in Israel. Granted, central Tel Aviv is
very much a materialistic, some say hedonistic environment. Where
shopping and materialistic show-off seem to dominate the everyday
expression. Yet, a few miles away, in Givatay'im or Ramat Gan, you
will see tallis clad men heading to morning prayers on Sabbath
(Saturday) morning. Most food shops offer more kosher food than any
shop in the best neighborhoods in Brooklyn NY. Finally, for the most
part, Israel is a Jewish state with most religious practices. To
Christians and Muslims the same is not the case, yet, there are
Christians which feel that living here is certainly a spiritually
fulfilling experience.
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